The End

The Safari Bunch

Charleville to Melton

We left Charleville and travelled just 100kms to our next campspot.   On this 100km stretch we saw more than 200 dead kangaroos, some with joeys,  and a few dead feral pigs.   We even saw 3 little piglets all run over.  The amount of roos saddened us both.   Why? here? we wondered.    A fantastic campspot, in the tiny ntown of Wyandra, saw us sitting around a campfire with other travellers, as night fell, kangaroos started to arrive and by the time we ended up in bed we were surrounded by more than a couple of hundred, happily grazing around the camp.   By morning they were gone, just their droppings left behind.   Our next prob. 100kms of highway saw almost the same amount of roadkill.   We could now understand why there are so many dead, obviously its a highly populated part of Qld.    Next stop was the Nindigully Pub and a happy hour was spent with the Frenchies who
were also camping overnight.    Happy Hour at the pub - $3 pots and wine.  The wine was so bad, we abandoned it after 1 glass and headed to the bus to continue.

From here we headed down to Hickey Falls, a favourite overnight stop for us in NSW.   We have camped when there has no water at all, when the falls have been torrential and this time when it was just a small flow but the rock pool was very inviting.  In Qld. 60% has been declared in drought.   Crossing over into NSW, the crops were green and lush everywhere we drove.  Obviously they are having a bumper year.

Rick spied these cars and we had to head off the bitumen to check thepaddocks out.  In the middle of nowhere. Not sure if they were burnt before being dumped or whether a fire has come thru.   Lots of scrap metal and a cars.   Nothing we wanted though.

Next stop was the town of Eubalong West.  We had heard of a wrecker out there that may have some parts for Ricks ute. The wrecker is the only thing in town.  Rick got himself an ashtray and a radio.   Pretty pleased with himself.   We were told of a really nice drive to do from Eubalong to Mt. Hope to Hillston and we were so pleased we did it.    They have had lots of rain recently and the roadsides were lush and green, lots of different species of trees, and there were wildflowers everywhere.   Lots of lizards/goannas crossing our paths and we slowed down everytime to just watch them.    So glad we did the drive.   Then off to Hillston, another small town, but it was very pretty.   We, once again, heard about some old cars, but sadly it turned out to be a disappointment.      Bumped into Ron & Jean, our Chapter friends who visited us in Birdsville, in Hay, NSW.  They were doing laundry and we were just browsing.    A chat and then we were off.    Had a really lovely campspot for our last night on the banks of the Campaspe River in Vic.    Of course, the sun was shining, we were drinking, happy/sad about our last night out.   Along came a reporter from the local newspaper who took our pics and did an interview with us on where we have been etc.   Cant remember  which paper she represented.!!!!!!!!!!!   Just started cooking tea, the heavens opened up, the wind howled and YES we were back in Vic.    The next morning, the long pants came out.   It was a bugger of a trip home.   The wind was really strong and the rain was so heavy we couldnt see where we were going.   Oh how we were happy ???????????????    So we arrived home.   The gardens look amazing. Emptied the bus of almost everything that we could wash.   Did 7 loads of washing.   This is what a lot of our clothes looked like when they came out of the bus.   Ricks good black jeans turned grey.

Caught up with Justin, Rachel and baby Xavier, which was wonderful.   Taken my mum out, ironed all the washing, did some housework, spent a day in the garden, the sun is shining, Rick is playing in the shed and guess what  ????   Have we ever been away???????    The holiday feels like a distant memory already.   But next week we have to start on pulling the bus apart, taking out everything that we can, and start to clean it.    It is so dirty.    In one way, Im looking forward to the challenge and in another, I know as soon as I start, Ill wish I hadnt.    

Its been a fantastic journey, not always what we hoped, but friendships made, happy hours, laughs and grumbles shared, make all the difference.

We are totally in love with the Outback, the colors, the ever changing landscape, the wildlife and the surprises along the way.   BUT we hope to never do another dirt road again.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quilpie to Charleville - 210kms.

The drive to Charleville was uneventful.   We saw quite a bit of wildlife after Quilpie.  Lots of emus, kangaroos, sheep, cattle, lizards and eagles.     The eagles that we have seen in the last 3 days have been massive.    Easily carry off a small child I reckon.   Unfortunately almost impossible to capture unless you are damn lucky and quick with the camera.   We are always travelling at too fast a speed and by the time we spot them we have passed them or they have taken flight.   Our biggest thrill is spotting emus.   We never get sick of seeing them and we have seen lots this trip.   There is something about these birds that make us smile everytime we see them, especially if they are running in fright or just keeping up with the bus.   Lots of road kill as well on these last stretches.    Roos, cows, eagles and feral pigs.    Sad for the native animals but the feral pigs are revolting.     We are now camped at the Showgrounds in Charleville.   Last night was our official end.   Dinner, raffle, entertainment (banjo and singalong !!!!!!!!) presentations, etc.   It was a nice night but tinged with sadness that we were at an end.   Raised over $3000 for the Flying Doctors, which was nice.    We were in Charleville in April this year so saw most of it then.  But we did a tour of Corones Hotel in town, which was an amazing tour of a pub started by a Greek who arrived in 1907 with no english and a handful of coins.   His brilliant tenacity and head for business saw him become a very successful businessman and his history was riveting.   The tour was 2 hours long, finishing up with afternoon tea.   Great value.

Today I have been glued to the computer catching up on this blog.   Its not as good as I would have liked but with service not available for days on end, almost 14 days straight at one stage, its been impossible to do anything.   Tomorrow we pack up and head somewhere south towards home.   Not sure where or when we get there, that will be taken  as it comes.    Some farewells today and more importantly tomorrow we say goodbye to Judith & Tony & Carol.    We have been the 5 amigos the whole trip and have had some very happy times.   Of course we are friends now and will stay in touch wherever we go.   Judith lives full time in her motorhome and Carol & Tony, from the Gold Coast have rented their house out and are on the road for the next two years.  

The Safari has been challenging.   Many of the 53 motorhomes that started out, ended up with damage.   Some gave up and left..   We sustained tyre damage and did a belt, but everything inside & out is coated in dust.   Squeaks and rattles are new also.  The Strezlecki Track was not suitable for any of the vehicles on this Safari and many have vented their anger in writing and phone calls to the CMCA who organise these things.    One of the motorhomes had 3 blown tyres, damaged rims, broken windows, cracked windscreens, ruptured water tanks,leaking petrol tanks,  lost exhausts, broken windows, bits taped and ziptied together.   A microwave fell out of its cupboard even though it was screwed down.   Lots of people found screws rolling around and have no idea where they belong.  Many fixtures in the motorhomes are now loose.  Two motorhomes had to be towed away for major repairs.     It was a tough trip for most of us.    I dont think anyone on this safari would ever do it again.   Poor advice from those that organised the Safari, re the conditions, led to a false sense of security.

We would never contemplate a trip like this again, but we have done it.  The Strezlecki Track, the Birdsville Races and the true Outback, seen the Simpson Desert and come to realise what a strange but wonderful land we live in.    Its now time to head for home, not looking forward to getting out of shorts and thongs and cold old Melbourne.

 Carol Tony & Rick at the Rodeo

Repairs on the road. Fly veils necessary

The Oz Frogs.  Gerrard getting a foot massage from Magguy

The Birdsville Cup

Judith at the Rodeo

Windorah to Quilpie - 248 kms.

Quilpie was another small town that didnt have a lot to see or do but we strolled the main streets and then checked out the local catholic church.   This church has an altar made from Opals.   It sounds really nice, but was a big disappointing in reality.   We were in an actual caravan park, so took advantage, got on a powered site, for a little bit of luxury.    Did a load of washing, yes thats how exciting it was, a very quick happy hour around a campfire and then off to the Quilpie Bowls Club for a catered dinner.    It was an excellent dinner.   Lots of meat & veges - no dessert though,.  Bummer.   We are becoming more and more relaxed as the dirt roads were left behind two days ago and we have been on bitumen.    Some of the roads have been extremely narrow and every time we moved off tar to give way to road trains etc. we held our breath and hoped we didnt do a tyre.    Leaving the dust behind has helped us relax more.   The bus is thick with it inside & out, but to not be travelling on it and camping up on it, is such a relief.    This is our 2nd last night on the Safari and its starting to feel sad to know it will be soon over.

Diamantina River to Windorah - 246 kms.

This tiny house was once the towns Court House and is now a private home.

Our next stopover was the Windorah Rec Reserve.  Nice little town.  Good pub, servo, general store and info centre.   Took about 15 mins to do the town.    We actually had showers, toilets, power and green grass.  The grass wasnt for camping on - fake turf just around the rec centre.    But we finished our Disc Bowls Comp on this lovely stretch of grass.    It was a very big happy hour as we cheered on the teams as they played thru the semis and the finals.   It got down to Girls vs. Boys.    Three solo ladies, Mel/Shirley/Anne played a fantastic game and took off the Championship.   The results were level at the end of 6 rounds and the Captains then had  a playoff.     Anne had never played before, so that was an amazing feat for her.    This afternoon bought us all together in a very loud and cheerful manner.  Boys cheering boys, girls cheering girls, but deep down everyone wanted the girls to win.    It was a truly great afternoon on the Safari.   Got a great memento here from the lady at the Info Centre.   A nice big banner, depicting the Outback Races.   Gave her a donation to Charity.  Will look good in the shed, along with some race posters and of course our trophy.

Bedourie to Diamantina River - 144kms

So we left Bedourie and headed off to the Diamantina River.    This was a rough road once again and unfortunately for us, just 5 kms from our camp we blew an inside tyre.   The noise was explosive inside the bus.

The very best thing about this Safari is that everyone stops, slows down, or calls on their CBs to see if you are OK.   Here we have Peter & Frank, helping us out with our blown tyre.   Frank, in the blue t shirt is 79, and didnt hesitate to slide under the bus and do the jacking up and help with the repairs.   It helped that Frank was the thinnest of them all and prob. the only one that could get under the bus anyway.    The wives busied themselves making lunch & coffee for the men.   Frank emerged with skinned arms where the gravel had bitten into him.   The only way he could get out from under the bus when the jack was let down was by his wife Lauren physically dragging him out by the ankles.   So we slowly limped into camp, dusty and down.  Knowing we didnt have another spare.   Rick was a little shook up by the whole thing.   We then discovered we had damage to one of our front tyres so the decision was made to take it off, put it on the back and take a better tyre to the front.   That way if a back tyre goes, we still have one to keep us moving, being twin steer.    3 towns later, we still cant get any tyres.

This camp spot was a shocker.   Rocky, hot and had absolutely nothing going for it. The 5 amigos tossed up moving on and out of this god forsaken place, but by the time Rick had changed the tyres, he wasnt in any shape to move on.   A very hot sunny happy hour was had by all.  Questions raised as to why they had chosen this crappy place, but the reasons were that it was too far between towns to justify travelling those distances.   Then at 3.00 in the morning it started to rain.   We were camped facing down towards the dry river and it was decided very quickly that everyone must pack up and move to higher ground.   If the ground became wet, it would be a week before we could get out.    Mad scramble as we quickly dressed, packed and moved.   It was 4.30 am by the time we were all resettled.   We opted to go back to bed.   Others stayed up, watched the electrical storm and then moved on very early.    We then had to make a quick and early exit ourselves as everyone seemed anxious to hit the road by 7.    Showers and breakfasts waited till further on down the road.   All that excitement.   A strange end to a very crappy day.

Bedourie Rodeo & Races

Rick & I and Carol & Tony decided to take our motorhomes out to the racecourse and camp out there Friday night.   That way we could enjoy the rodeo, then be up and ready for the races.   We had our motorhomes entered into the Travellers & Ute Muster on the Sat and had to be in line around 9am anyway.

Bulls lined up for the Rodeo as the sun sets and the rodeo starts.   Well.  It was supposed to start at 6 but I think it was more like 7.30.   Very laid back.  Mostly local station boys showing themselves off to their mates/girls perhaps?   Had a couple of little tackers competing which was really great to see.    A couple of our motorhome mates also had a go at tackling a bull to the ground.   They won!!!!!!!!   It was a lovely night to be outdoors.  We set our chairs up on some concrete culverts and so almost had a "grandstand" view again.   No not really.

The Crowds anticipating the action.

The Utes and Motorhomes lined up the next morning for the Show and Competition.   The Big Red Bus took out 1st Place in the Best Travellers Motorhome Category.   Carol & Tony took out 1st Place in the Furtherest Qld. Motorhome, Cathy (a solo) took out 1st Place in the Furtherest from Home (shes from Tassie) and one of other Motorhomers took out 1st Place in the Best Bull Bar.    We all were presented with a trophy, number plate surrounds and an envelope that had $400 cash in it.   That was a great surprise.   Very happy campers we lot were.   Just after the judging in the morning, we met up with some caravanners, Gary & Cathy that we had met in 2011 in WA.   We had camped with them in 3 places and enjoyed a happy hour with them way back then.    They recognised Rick/The Bus and came over to say HI.  It was a really nice surprise.    Its great to catch up with those you have met on the road.

Carol & Tony with their award.

The Bedourie Cup.   It was a tight 3 way finish and a protest.  Race results were a long time coming.   The long shot got up and won in the end.   These races were very laid back.   It was once again hot and it seemed to take forever between races.  The only good thing was that the motorhomes were parked up close to the seating and we were able to keep ducking out to get cold drinks and snacks.   Only a few hundred attended the meeting, mostly locals, some very dressed up.   The theme was dress pink for breast cancer research and many did, including lots of men.   I bought a nice pink t shirt from the cancer stall to wear  on the day.   Once again, we didnt really bet, just picked a horse and barracked it down the course.   The bookies were doing a roaring trade though.   The locals sure know how to throw money around.      Many of the horses and jockeys had been at Birdsville.   We were tipped a good thing by a trainer we met, and decided to

bet up big on his horse.   Sadly he couldnt get a jockey and the horse was a non starter.

The Racecourse Camp

 Fashions on the Field.  We had decided to stay out at the Racecourse that night, but opted to go back and park up on our patch of grass again rather than the dust of the racecourse.  

Birdsville to Carcory Ruins - 81kms. - Cuttaburra Crossing to Bedourie - 115kms.

Carcory Ruins was going to be our next campspot, but it was decided to press on and camp out at Cuttaburra Crossing instead.   We were told it was quite a small camp spot but it did have a great waterhole, where we could relax and perhaps take a swim.

Well it was weedy and the water was very suss.   No way would anyone go swimming there.   It was also snake heaven.    The camp spots along the water are OK for some of the smaller vans but most of us had to park out on very rough, soft dirt.   As we were parking up, the Council grader was pushing dirt in and around us.   The camp was supposed to have been graded weeks ago in expectation of our arrival but, it was being done as we parked up.    A quick consultation amongst the majority of us and it was decided to push on to Bedourie our next camp.   Mind you, we had planned to stay out at the crossing for two nights if it had been suitable.    Some did stay on, and enjoyed the experience of catching some good fish for their dinners.By choosing to push on, we were then in Bedourie  way to early.   We were there for Friday nights Rodeo and Saturdays Races.   We were 3 days too early.   But the saving grace was that they had an artesian spa and swimming pool in the town and we availed ourselves of it every day.   Between the pool, walks to the pub, shopping at the roadhouse, the days just flew.

The Pub where we had a great lunch. 

Cattle Road Trains outside the roadhouse.  We were camped behind the roadhouse on a nice piece of grass????   Most of the others were camped across the road in the "caravan park" in the dust.   We were directed behind the roadhouse cos the caravan park was chockers with safari vehicles and other RVs.   We actually had a great spot to camp up in.

The spa is naturally heated, straight out of the ground at 40oC.   It was so hot, it took me about 5 mins to actually immerse myself.   I didnt attempt the cold pool.   The next morning Rick and I got up and went down around 9.30.   It was almost deserted and I found it much easier to get in the hot water this time.   10 mins. max. in the spa.   When you hop out, you are actually quite light headed and need to sit for a minute or two before moving on to the cold pool.

Birdsville Races

Well, we have been there done that.   It was an amazing day to see the tide of people get off the commuter buses from the town and stream into the races.   As we had gotten there early we had prime position.   Ate and drank before the races started.   Had a bet, lost, and from thereon in just picked the "winners" from the form guide and followed them thru the race without laying a bet.    It was a hot and dusty day.   The racetrack a dust bowl.   Rick hated every minute of it.  Couldnt handle the crowds.    We decided to leave before the last race to try and catch an early bus.    Hundreds had the same idea, but we only had to wait around 10 mins. for a bus.   The bus dropped us in town and we headed over to the Flying Doctors BBQ Stall.    There were a lot of food stalls, souvineer stalls, t shirt shops, boxing tent, and entertainment during the race carnival.    The Flying Doctors had over catered and so were selling off their fresh produce at reduced prices.    In Birdsville everything cost you top dollar.    A handful of grapes could cost you $9, 10L of drinking water $18, etc. etc. All the bread is frozen and is $5-6 a loaf.   But thats what you had to pay in the Outback.   Naturally they had to make their $$$$$$ whilst they could.    Hence we got "bargains" at the Flying Doctors.   $1 per tomato, $3 per lettuce, 50c per bread roll and $3 eggs.   Bought a fair bit of bacon from them as well.   Going thru that in no time.  Rick is a very happy man.

Hopped back on the bus with our goodies and back to camp.   Sunday we spent with Ron & Jean.    Then took a bus trip out to "The Big Red Sand Dune".   This was a very expensive $55 pp Sunset Champagne & Nibbles tour.   We trudged up very soft sand to the top of the first dune.   These dunes are 4WD drivers heaven as they try to tackle the dunes on their 1st attempt.    Sadly for us, most of them had left town and so didnt get to see what might have been a fun night.    Before the sunset, we had our happy hour.   Well, blow me down, there were about 20 on the trip and there was just ONE BOTTLE of Champers.    You could also have a moscato, sav blanc or a red or beer or soft drink BUT lets face it, when they say its a Champagne Sunset tour, thats what you expect.   Not all the girls got a champers.  Pretty poor stuff really.  Definitely not worth the money, but once again, they have to make their $$$$ whilst the crowds are in town.  The sunset wasnt all that special anyway and we had far more beautiful ones as the trip progressed.

Monday we started the Disc Bowl Championships.    It was hot and dusty and fly heaven (I know I keep repeating it but thats what it was like).   Then in the afternoon, Rick and Tony took off and washed the buses at the wash down bay.   Yay, sitting inside the bus, we found internet service.    I could finally check our emails, after 7 days.   It felt like heaven to be in touch again.     Tuesday, we packed up, headed to the pub for official photos outside the pub and then started out to our new destination.    Rick wasnt looking forward to more dirt roads and didnt get a good nights sleep.    We are really over this dirt road stuff beleive me.

Birdsville

Birdsville Pub.   Normally the street is totally deserted.

The Birdsville Pub in the Main Street

The Race Track

Happy Punters.  Got a "grandstand" seat, in the shade all day, right in front of the winning post. Yes we are on the 4th level of the grandstand.  Had to get there hours early to get the spot but we were soooooo glad we did.   It was a very very hot day You had to purchase drink tickets in town at the pub prior to coming out to the races.   All "sales" over the race bar, were by ticket only..The actual racecourse entrance, you can see our grandstand to the right of the picture

The crowds at fashions on the fields

Rick and Tony at the Winning Post enjoying a drink before the races start.

The horses getting ready to race.   Far different to city race meetings

The Bookies getting ready for a big day

The Races

Jockeys lined up before the big race.  The Birdsville Cup

The Safari outside the pub on Tuesday, when the town became almost deserted again.

Betoota to Birdsville - 166kms.

Before we got to Birdsville, Rick saw some scary lights on the dash light up and the temp. started to soar.    Holy Crap, I thought the worst.   We had done a belt and that belt had forced a couple of other belts to come off their pulleys.   Fortunately they werent damaged and Rick carried a replacement belt for the one that died.   But it was hard going to actually get access to the job.   Here we have Tony under the bus, Rick, Craig & Gene (our two sweeps/mechanics) and Des.   All working hard to get us back on the road.   Once again they had to contend with heat, dust, flies and the constant dust coming off passing vehicles.  The bitumen had just started, which was a very good thing.   Thank God for the safari sweeps.    They did a fantastic job, not just for us, but almost everyone on the safari as vehicles succumbed to the horrid conditions.    More on that later.



Arrived at Birdsville and immediately got breath tested!!!!!!   Campers everywhere.   Its hot, dry, and dusty.   We went straight into town, filled up, bought some ice to keep the fridge cold and then went to our camp.  We had a small dusty area roped off.  We were promised 2 toilets, a shower and water for our use.   The toilet was a public loo outside the camp, no shower and the tap was also a public use one.    It was stinking hot and we werent that happy.    A supposedly "courtesy bus", which we thought was just for us safari people, consisted of a public bus, which cost a gold coin donation. But didnt start till 10.45.    A smaller bus started early in the morning but cost $5 per trip in and out. Those without showers actually had to ride the bus into town, pay $5 for a shower and then ride the bus back.    Sometimes costing them $15 a day.    Birdsville is normally a town of 40 people.   It swells to 10,000 people when the races are on.   The races are held on Fri & Sat and from Sunday onwards, there is a mass exodus.    We thought we had phone & internet service, but some idiot jammed the system over the weekend and there was virtually no service unless you got up in the middle of the night.    Naturally he left town by Tuesday and we were once again on air.  We had just about set up camp on the Thursday, when Ron & Jean, members of our Southern Explorers Chapter back home pulled up.   We had a quick chat, hoped to catch up later once we were settled.  Thought we might bump into each other at the Races but that would prove impossible.   So we got together after the races for a lovely long bbq lunch.   It was really great to see them.   They had been in Birdsville a week, simply to watch the town swell from its population of 40 to 10,000.    Campers camped anywhere and everywhere.   Portable loos and water taps and rubbish skips sprung up along the roadsides.