Esperance cont.

There is a 21km drive you can do in Esperance starting at the Information Centre.  On that 21km drive you visit more than 10 different beaches.   They all start to blur after a while.    It was a rough old day, the rain had stopped, but the wind was blowing a gale and the seas were getting quite rough.   On a beautiful still day they would have been sensational.   Still I have posted them here so that you can se the "islands" of granite that are all thru the bays here.

Twilight Beach, once voted the worlds best beach.   Many moons ago.

More Granite Islands

The beach from the town lookout

The port facility right in the CBD

Looking back to town and the port facility

We had planned to stay an extra day in Esperance in town, but Rick is anxious to move on so we are now heading North to Norseman than we will turn East and start the journey on the Nullabor.   I have tried to drag it out a bit longer but Rick wont cooperate!!!!  Im losing the battle.!!!!   I love the Coast and dont want to leave it yet.   Home is beckoning.    Not sure what service there is as we cross the Nullabor this week so may or may not be updating for a while.   Quite possibly there wont be anything worth reporting anyway.

Cape Le Grand and Lucky Bay

Parked up and ready to drive for kms along Cape Le Grand beach, the other campspot in the Nat. Park

Shamrock Bay, the white sand dunes in the background

Hellfire Bay, this was beautiful. We walked all the way around this bay and were treated to a show from some dolphins that were fishing off shore

Whistling rock - Another "dog" rock we think.  The rock actually does whistle as the wind comes thru.  

The dolphins we spotted.  There looked to be about a dozen just off shore and we caught these ones "surfing"

Parked on Lucky Bay beach

The view as you enter the campground

The view from the steps of the bus

The other view from the steps of the bus

This rock is a 3km walk to the top. We didnt do it of course

The kangas in the campground, they just hang around and wander around the vans without any fear.

Our neighbours water bucket.

Albany-Ravensthorpe-Esperance

Leaving Albany we headed to an overnighter at Ravensthorpe.  It was an interesting trip watching the landscape constantly change.   We had wheatfields, sheep, cattle, eucalypt/tree farms, forests of nat. park and then mines.   Two very large mines were seen, one at night lit up like fairyland.  The other mine, which we couldnt work out what it was processing was as big as any that we had seen up North.    We pulled into a bush camp, settled down and then it started to bucket down.  No service, so card games and draughts were played until we went to bed.   Then we started to feel our camp was just a little "creepy" no reason, we just both felt uncomfortable.  So at 9.30 we jumped out of bed, started up the bus and took off back into town.   Dinner dishes in the sink, half asleep, half dressed.  Ended up in the middle of town in one of their parks.  Not quite a legal stopover but we were stuffed and just didnt care.   The camp was prob. perfectly OK, we just had "that" feeling.    The next day we set off for Esperance.   It rained all the way and we werent feeling happy.   (Sue - thought of you & Brian then and your time visiting Esperance)   Got to the Esperance Info Centre, told them we were heading for Cape Le Grand Nat. Park and Lucky Bay and they said as far as they knew the campground was full.   There was no way they could check its status, we just had to drive the 55km out there, and if full, drive 55km back!!!!!.   Not impressed.   When we got out there it was 3/4 empty.    Our friend Paula told us we would love Esperance and she wasnt wrong.    As you turn down to go into campground, the words OH MY GOD couldnt be held back.   What a stunning place.   Crystal clear waters, white sand that went on forever, granite rocks everywhere.     Such a beautiful place to camp up, $12 per night, looking over Lucky Bay.  You could drive for kms along the beach, swim, fish or just soak up the beauty.    The whole of Cape Le Grand National Park was beautiful.   We visited all the bays and took far too many photos.   This lower end of WA is seriously granite rock country.    There are "mountains" of granite here that would give Ayers Rock a run for its money they are so huge, but their colours annd landscape make them breathtaking. We were so lucky because the sun shone for us and we were able to sit back and just enjoy.    This is one  place where you can see kangaroos lazing on the white sands of the beach.   They were there each afternoon around 4.30, I wish I had taken photos of them as our "neighbours" in the campground did and they were fantastic.  Bugger.    We were too lazy to walk around the beach to visit them. I could have stayed for weeks, but Rick is anxious to move on and get home, so 3 days was it for us.     Definitely the place to visit again and again. The day we left it started to rain once again.    I have posted pictures on the next instalment.

Albany

Can you see the puppy's head - this is The Gap at one of the National Parks here in Albany.

The Bridge - I cant remember its name

Dog Rock - Does he look like a Staffy.   This is the feature of the Dog Rock Shopping Centre (Woolworths)

Dog Rock Motel

Salmon Pond Bay - pure rock

Albany is a very large City and we liked it very much.   Parked up in a caravan park, next to the main beach which is huge.   This place is built on and surrounded by pure granite rock.   As you can see from the examples above.   Lots of houses are built with foundations over massive rocks on their blocks.  Others are set back from the rocks, then landscaped to include the rock as its garden.  Everywhere you look you see these monstrous but very attractive rocks.     Lots of lovely old heritage type buildings here, all mostly around where the Port is.  Albany has a huge and very busy port facility, lots of ships coming and going being loaded with various cargoes and has been so since the 1800s.   Whaling was also very big here.    It would be a great spot for whale watching at the right time of the year as Albanys bays are easily viewed from a number of great lookouts. This place was also the embarkation point for the Anzacs when they went to fight in WW1.  It was very hot here, spent time  walking the beaches and in the park pool, but also watching the smoke clouds in the sky. We thought it was from Margaret River but then found out there were fires not far from Denmark, around 50kms from here, where we were last.  The weather has changed so fingers crossed the fires are now under control as I type.  Last reports 39 houses lost at Margaret River.

Cable Beach Albany not as nice as Broomes Cable Beach but very private

Waiting for a feed, we tried to give them chips but they were waiting for the fishermen to clean their catch.

Parrys Beach

We camped for a couple of days at a nice cheap little campground at Parrys Beach.   The Kite surfer below is on the beach, he is one of the campers we have been constantly bumping into along the way.   The pretty beach photos are Greens Point a 10min drive from our Camp.   This little bay beach is prob. one of the most beautiful we have ever seen.   Our fav. spots so far in Exmouth and Coral Bay are up there, but we just thought this was No.1

Two walks along the beach, saw us scrambling when two dugites were on the sand and along the rocks we were walking on.  It must be "the season" our caretaker had a tiger snake nxt to his cabin and we saw one on the road as we drove out of the camp.

We are now down in Denmark.   In a caravan park after 14 days of "free" camping.  The laundry has piled up, we have been travelling on dirt roads, to see some beaches/bays, the bus is putrid inside and out, the car unrecognisable (been driving on the beach at Parrys) and its time for house work.  Mind you its hot here - 32o so its not a pleasant job, rather be relaxing though there isnt a pool here which is very strange.  I guess the beach is 5min away so perhaps thats the reason.   We can see the smoke from the fires from here and have even had ash floating in the air.    This caravan park is huge and very beautiful.   In its peak times (late Dec to Easter) they have 2000 campers coming and going thru the park.    Lots of kangaroos all over the place amongst the sites and lots of poo everywhere.   The owner of this park owns an automotive business in Perth, spending big $$$$ here, owns another caravan park elsewhere plus a vineyard.   Another one with too much money!!!!!     Today is a sightseeing day so Im looking forward to visiting Swiss Annies - a Licensed Chocolate restaurant.  If Rick will let me?

Pemberton to Walpole

This Tingle Tree is more than 300y.o. and is very healthy!!!!!!!

Grandpa Tingle Tree



Treetop Walk

 The home of the Giant Tingle Trees and the treetop walk.  Had never heard of these trees but they are amazing.There are Red and Yellow Tingle Trees. Eucalypts.  They can grow up to 75M tall and 20M round.   They have hollow bases caused by fires, insects etc.   As long as part of the tree under the bark is alive, the trees will continue to grow.    Dozens of them with all sorts of hollow trunks but all growing strong.

The Treetop Walk is 600M long and is 40M above the ground.  Walking amongst the Eucalypts.  Lovely feel on top of the forest.  There is also a walk amongst the Giant Tingle Trees here which was fun as some of them have trunks that you can picture as something comical.

Margaret River to Pemberton

I am typing this and listening to the news of fires at Margaret River, so hope it gets under control without loss of life.

Margaret River - The town itself is quite small, you can walk up one side of the street and then down the other in about 20 mins.   Rick and I did some of the attractions - cheese factory, chocolate factory, nut & cereal factory etc. mostly it was all about the scenery.    We then left for Pemberton and camped up in the bush.  Nice camp but no service here.  Big Brook Dam is close by and it is a really beaut spot for swimming and great trout fishing.  Here is the Gloucester Tree, the highest working fire lookout in the world. You can climb the 153 rungs up 60Metres to the lookout if you are keen.  Naturally we didnt.

Our bush camp. The trees behind us are 90 y.o.

This was where I spent my birthday.  Deep in the bush, no internet no phone and Rick was sick as a dog.  Got sick Friday night and ended up for most of Sat. either huddled in a chair, in the toilet or sleeping in bed.   All the other campers left for a day of sightseeing and I was alone except for the magpies and rosellas.  I read a book and a half in the peace and quiet.    We stayed two days cos Rick was too weak and light headed to move one.   Even when we pulled out he still wasnt 100% and it took a couple of days to get over the bug.
We managed  couple of scenic drives, visiting Windy Harbor which was a recommended Camp spot for us.  Must admit it wasnt all that nice so glad we had chosen to stay in the bush instead.   The Karri Forests were stunning though.  They grow so tall and straight and their trunks are so pretty it makes you feel so good as you drive thru them.

Margaret River cont.

The road into Paula & Domenics Farm, beautiful natural bush.   The Margaret River region is truly beautiful.  In fact the SW of WA is very special.    Natural forests, lots of National Parks, over 100 caves here and then there is the 100s of klms of coastline.   There are 75 surf breaks along this coastline, so people come from all over the world for not only the wine but the surf.    The beaches are either nice calm crystal waters and white sands, to rugged rocky bays and surf and more surf.On our drive around with Paula and Domenic they took us thru Karridale and the Boranup Forest.   This is a beautiful drive.   One moment you are driving thru natural aussie bush and then you round a corner and there is a stand of Karri Gum trees.  Neither Rick or I had ever seen or heard of them.   They just grew in this one spot and they were awesome to see.   Majestic tall gum trees with a greyish white trunk.   As quickly as they appeared they disappeared and the forest went back to natural bush.  Kinda strange but wonderful.   Way too tall for me to get a picture though.

The Lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin at Augusta. The tallest lighthouse on Mainland Aust.   Still operating and you can climb to the top for a guided tour.The lighthouse is situated at the most southerly tip of Aust.   This is where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet

Voyager Winery

The above are the gardens of one of the 90 odd wineries/breweries here in the region.   Impossible to visit even 1/3 of them, so we just picked out the ones that looked amazing in the tour books with either gardens and or buildings.   The amount of $$$$ spent on these wineries is nothing short of staggering.   The gardens are amazing and then there are the cellar door buildings, the lakes etc. etc.    Didnt try too much wine though, wasnt that inclined, just visited them for the photos.   All the cellar doors we visited mid-week were extremely busy.  Although we did dine out at one of them, specialising in German food, how could Rick resist, smoked pork, bratwurst and potatoes, he was in heaven.   This was both a winery and brewery specialising in german beer but he didnt try any.

Laurence Wineries rose garden leading to its lake.   Most of the big wineries have huge water features and very grand entrances.

New estate at Margaret River

The whole of WA seems to be very well off.  The price of housing and land is huge compared to back home.  Lots of people simply must have way too much money when you see the size of their holiday homes all along the coastline.  Nothing to see them for sale at $3M+    Paula and Domenic took us for a drive on their next door neighbours property (not the one I got us lost on).  This property is more than 700 acres, the chap who owns it developed it as a resort putting in huge infrastructure, roads, walk trails, lake, bridges, reception offices, restaurant, golf course, cabins, you name it.   Three months later, he shut it down.   It has been on the market for a while now, was $7mill but is now $17mill.   All going to rack and ruin whilst it remains empty.  Thats what Im talking about - too much money!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    Make a great caravan park but who could afford it.

Margaret River

 

We arrived at Margaret River and followed Paulas directions, or so I thought.   Found the road, saw the farm gate and opened it up and headed in.   After a couple of klms. on a rough drive, trees scratching the side of the bus, thru dense looking bush, we figured we were lost and I had stuffed up.   Managed to turn around, I got out and walked down the road, breaking off branches along the way, got out the gate, looked at the directions and realised MY mistake!!!!!!!!   Yes had turned too early and was driving on the neighbours farm.   Found the right way in and arrived in Paradise.!!!!  Paula and Domenic have 201 acres of natural bush with an area cleared for their home and paddocks for the cows.   The house is lovely set on a large dam/lake.   They have done an incredible lot of hard work to get it to this stage but it is truly jaw dropping gorgeous.    We loved our time here, their hospitality and generosity was wonderful.   Paula and Domenic took us out and showed us around both Margaret River and down the coast to Augusta.   Enjoyed a picnic on the banks of the river and just had a really nice time with these two plus sally the dog.   As I type this we are a a few days away from Margaret River now but there are very serious bushfires burning not far from them.  They are Ok and we hope that stays the same for them.   The beaches and towns that they took us to and the roads we travelled are all clear in our minds and we can visualise where the fires are and the impact that it is having.   At Prevelly where the surfing comps are held has one road in and out.   The people have been evacuated to the beach as I type.   It was interesting because we were just discussing the isolation of these town as regards to fires when Paula was showing us around.

Capel & Bussellton

Brian & Sue

 

Whilst we were parked in Capel we visited a Heritage/Museum type park that was recommended.  It was a fascinating place, full of old tractors and nostalgic bits and pieces, we spent hours there.   The old blokes who work as volunteers put on a tractor pull for us.  We think they got the biggest kick out of it as they tricked one another as they tried to outdo each other.   We were all left laughing at their antics.   When we left Brian & Sues we decided to revisit Bussellton, one of the places Brian had taken us to visit.   We parked up by the seashore and decided to do the Jetty walk - 1.8kms long.   Well, it was a lovely sunny day when we started out.   They were charging $2.50pp to walk the jetty, $11pp to ride the mini train and $29.50pp to visit the underwater observatory at the end of the jetty.  Being tightarses, we opted for the $2.50 fee reluctantly!!!!.   A third of the way thru the walk, the sky turned black, the wind whipped up and we raced for one of 3 shelters along the jetty.   It was pretty useless as gaps in the shelter let the wind and rain blow thru.  As soon as it let up we headed off again a little wet and windblown. This happened twice for us.  When we got to the end of the jetty, there wasnt anything to do or see, unless you were doing the underwater thing so we turned around and headed back into the crappy weather we had already experienced.   When we got back to the beach, the sun came out and the sky turned blue just our luck.   We were reluctant to do anymore sightseeing by this stage so just warmed up in the bus before heading off again.   Drove along the coast and visited more seaside type towns in Dunsborough and Yallingup before arriving at Margaret River.